Friday, April 18, 2008

2008 Bordeaux Field Trip Series: 2007 Sauternes Tasting

In the south of Bordeaux region and on both sides of the Garonne River lies a collection of liquoreux appellations. They are known for producing sweet wine wines from noble rotten grapes. The unique climate here is assisted by the cold waters from a smaller river, the Ciron. In autumn, cold water from the Ciron River will meet with the warm waters from the Garonne River, creating foggy mornings followed by sunny afternoons. Such an environment encourages the growth of a mold called Botrytis Cinerea which depletes the water content in the grapes and concentrates the natural sugar levels. The resultant juice of noble-rot grapes is syrupy with high sugar content with a matching high level of acidity, allowing it to age for than 50 years in some of the best vintages. Not all the grapes will be affected by noble-rot evenly, sometimes different from vine to vine and even from one grape to another. Harvesting is time consuming and often low yield. It is common for vineyards to perform multiple picking (called ‘trie’ in French). To give an idea of how small the yield can be, it is about a glass of wine per vine. The picture on the left showed a bunch of grapes that are affected by noble rot.

Chateau Suduirant
Built around 1670, Chateau Suduiraut is located on the southern end of Pregnac, just next to Chateau d’Yquem. The vineyard is about 40-50m above sea level, planting mostly Semillon (92%) and Sauvignon Blanc (8%). Fermentation is done in stainless steel tank and aged in oak barrels. For the Semillon, aging is done in new oak barrels whereas the Sauvignon Blanc is aged in used barrels so as to preserve the freshness of the fruits. Cryoextraction is sometimes used to freeze the grapes upon harvest, especially when the weather condition (e.g imminent rain) is unfavourable during harvesting.
2007 Vintage
This wine has a blend of 90% Semillon, 8% Sauvignon Blanc and 2% Muscadelle. Alcohol level 13.8% and residual sugar of 130g/L. In Suduiraut, 5 pickings were performed during harvesting (usually 3 in the past years). The wine has a nice amber color, concentrated nose of ripe apricot. Upon tasting, it has layers of peach and mango flavours balanced by the fruit acidity. Fresh and clean palate, very expressive of the fruits. This young vintage has a huge aging potential, perhaps in excess of 20 years.

Chateau La Tour Blanche
Believed to be established in the 18th century, the estate was named after Jean de Latourblance, Louis XVI’s treasurer. The vineyard sits on the hill overlooking the Ciron River, planted primarily white grapes and a small quantity (~38 ha) of red grapes. Fermentation is done in wooden vats and aged in 100% new oak barrels for 16-18 months prior bottling. The almost unheard of red wine from this vineyard is called Cru de Cinquet. There is also the dry white called Les Jardins de Thinoy. This Chateau has probably the most interesting portfolio of wines among the Premier Crus Classes in Sauternes. We have the honour of having our lunch in this Chateau with a carefully designed menu of food and wine pairing, ranging from dry white to dessert wines for each dish. There is however no specific tasting of the 2007 vintage but the 2002 gives us an idea of what the style of wine from this Chateau.
2002 Vintage
Made with 80% Semillon, 18% Sauvignon Blanc and 2% Muscadelle, this wine has an attractive ripe pineapple and honey nose, orange flavour on the palate with medium length finish. Very refreshing indeed, with an aging potential of perhaps another 5-8 years.

Chateau d’Yquem
The best known and probably the most expensive vineyard in Bordeaux, its origins was dated back 1593 and it was acquired by LVMH in 1996. Quality control is strict and not every vintage wine is available. An aged d’Yquem wine has a lovely burnished gold color, sweet and unctuous and still astonishingly fresh. The vineyard is about 100 ha, planted with 80% Semillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc. During harvest, the vineyard may use as many as 200 pickers to select the grapes for vinification. Its 2003 vintage is believed to be one of the best in its record as the climate conditions are almost perfect for the Botrytis.
2004 Vintage
An intense honey nose with subtle layers of citrus fruits. This is further accentuated with the flavours of lemon and pear. A velvet palate balanced with fruit acidity, long lasting finish. An elegant wine with great finesses and longevity.

Chateau Guiraud
Just like many vineyards in Bordeaux, this estate has gone through several ownerships. It was during the 1980s that Guiraud grew from strength to strength under the stewardship of the Narpy family, producing very fine vintages. The estate has about 100 ha of vines, 85% is dedicated to producing the premier crus sweet wines and the remaining 15% is for the making of the dry white, named G de Chateau Guiraud (Sauvignon Blanc).
2007 Vintage
Amber yellow in color. Intense aroma of apricot fruits and notes of honey. Sweet and smooth in the mouth balanced by the refreshing fruit acidity. Youthful and refreshing with a lingering finish. Great aging potential of at least 15 years.

Conclusion
The 2007 vintage is blessed with a good climatic condition, giving the vineyards both quality and quantity. Noble rot set onto the grapes with no complication and the wines are in general, deliciously juicy and honey like, yet balanced with a refreshing fruit acidity. The latter is greatly assisted by the Sauvignon Blanc which adds to the mineral character of wines. A year to be celebrated for its finesse and longevity.

By Cher Lim
Wine Treasures Pte Ltd

Labels:

Tuesday, April 08, 2008

2008 Bordeaux Field Trip Series: 2007 Single Variety Tasting

I have just returned from a one week field trip with Institute Master Wine at Bordeaux. This time, we visited a total of 13 classified growth Chateaux, attended a morning session with the world renowned Oenologist Professeur Denis Dubourdieu, tasted multiple vintages in each Chateau and of course assessing 2007 as well! I was told that the first weeks of April belong to the world famous wine writers who will be assessing the wines in Bordeaux and negociants will be eager to work out the price of the en primers with the Chateaux owners for the consumers. I decided to put together a report for some of the highlights in the trip, especially those that will help us determine our future purchasing. The first in this series is the 2007 Single Variety Tasting conducted by Professeur Dubourdieu at the Universite de Bordeaux.

First, the 2007 climate is very different from that of 2005 which was lauded as the most successful year in Bordeaux for decades. Indeed, 2007 is more like the usual Bordeaux climate where rainfall can be excessive at times. While in other parts of the world where draught posed a threat to viticulture, Bordeaux has perhaps a little too much water. For 2007, there is abundant water in the grapes growing season, encourages more vegetative growth. Although this is mediated by crop management tactics, the excessive water can only be drained away (for gravel) or blocked 'away' (by clayey soil), depending on the soil type. In the Medoc region, red grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot are grown best on gravel soils where water drainage is most effective while Merlot is best on clayey soils where water stress is minimum. In order to discover how each grape variety reacts to the 2007 climate, we have the honour to taste the above single variety wines made by Prof Denis Dubourdieu and to acquire an educated opinion of the general 2007 Bordeaux in the Medoc region:

2007 Merlot
Deep purple color with a nose of berries laced with youthful leafy nuances. Medium-full bodied with a jammy flavor, liquorice and velvet tannins. Will provide finesse and flavour to the blend.
2007 Cabernet Franc
Purple ruby color with a green leafy nose. Pronounced acidity that is refreshing but feel little tannins in the palate. Rather single dimensional and will probably KIV in deciding its role in the final blending.

2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
Attractively deep purple color with intense red and black fruits laced with a leafy nose. There are traces of smokiness and jam in the flavour. Velvety tannins and a firm finishing. Structured and delightfully approachable.
2007 Petit Verdot
Very deep purple color. A nose of fresh fruits and spices that is attractively unique. High tannins with firm acidity. This is a multi-dimension profile which will add complexity to the final blend.

2007 Bordeaux Blend (Red)
Having tasted the individual variety, it is not difficult to imagine that Cabernet Franc will play a much smaller role in the final blending. It is therefore not surprising to see the blending ratio: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 18% Petit Verdot. This is probably by far the highest percentage of Petit Verdot used in a Bordeaux wine! The final wine has a complex nose of berries and spices, flavours of liquorice and smokiness, balanced with fruit acidity and a firm finish that will help the wine to mature over the next 5-10 years. An early maturity wine that has a good structure and finesse.

2007 Semillon
Pale yellow with a delicate aroma of fresh apricot and white peach. Sweet smooth entry balanced with fresh acidity and a long finish. Delicate and yet refreshing. This wine exuberates finesse and power. The grapes are planted on limestones which give the acidity by saturating calcium with the clay.

2007 Sauvignon Blanc
Pale yellow with aroma of passion fruit laced with green leafy notes. Probably higher acidity than the Semillon. It has a mineral finish that gives a “kick” to the palate. The grapes are also planted on limestones which are famous for contributing to the acidity and mineral flavours in wines.

2007 Bordeaux Blend (White)
The final blend is a beauty indeed. Pale yellow in color, it has a beautiful nose of peaches and apricot, nice refreshing minty flavours. Smooth in the mouth and has a long mineral finish. I was told that the wine was on lees for 10 months, individual grape variety wines were aged in 1-year old barrel separately before blending. There is definitely more proportion of Semillon in this blend.
Conclusion
The 2007 Red Bordeaux is quite similar to the 2004 vintage, more of a classical expression of the Bordeaux climate. If the winemakers of other Chateaux also have a similar experience on the Petit Verdot, 2007 may mark the year where this variety has a major influence in the final wine character. The 2007 White Bordeaux is by far an outstanding beauty, especially with the more attractive Semillon in the blend. Juicy and yet refreshing, it could outshine its Red counterparts! With these results, I will also watch out for the delicious sweet wines at Sauternes and Barsac :)

By Cher Lim
Wine Treasures Pte Ltd
http://www.wine-treasures.com/
Email: cher.lim@wine-treasures.com

Labels:

Saturday, May 19, 2007

Wine @ Cambodge


When I was invited to attend a spa opening in Cambodge (Cambodia written in French), I thought it is a great opportunity to practice my limited French after 15 weeks of elementary lessons. We (my husband too!) went onto the plane with my everyday French handbook and an intense curiosity since it is our first trip to this ex-French colony.

Our stop is Phnom Penh which is the capital city of Cambodge with about 2 million people. It is known for its French influenced architecture. Indeed, we saw a number of French styled buildings along the way from the airport to the hotel. It is a busy city - the traffic is heavy, populated by MPVs intertwined with motorcyclists carrying 3 to 4 piller riders. People are busy going about their everyday business. The preferred currency is US dollars for all forms of transactions, including buying food from the wet market.

We have a great host who filled our schedule with various site seeing and lots of great food. There are a number of French eateries in Phnom Penh but they are not exactly in authentic French style. I think it is due to the lack of suitable ingredients and the need to make it affordable. Service is great and unpretentious. We had almost non-stop dining throughout the 2 days of stay. As most of the guests in this trip do not drink wine, I have to settle with the wine-by-glass menu available.

Since I wanted to practice French, I decided to speak to a waitress with my ‘elementary’ accent to order my meal. It is probably my most interesting experience because she made it a point to correct my pronunciation and grammar! I did get my food right and she took the order with due diligence. Finally, when I wanted to ask for the label of the wine-by-glass menu, I realized I have run out of vocabulary. So, I just settled for a glass of white wine without knowing where it comes from.

To my relief, the wine turns out to be of reasonable quality. It is a blend of Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay, probably from South Africa. The chardonnay adds body to the wine which is rather short in length. However, it is a nice aperitif, especially after much hard work in getting my order pronounced properly. The dinner concluded with much laughter and joy.

C’est des vacances fantastiques!

Copyright of Wine Treasures Pte Ltd

By Cher Lim
Wine Treasures Pte Ltd
Website: http://www.wine-treasures.com/
Email: limce@singnet.com.sg

Labels:

Friday, March 30, 2007

Angelo Gaja Barbaresco 2000


Tasting this wine again is a wonderful experience. My first tasting was almost 2 years ago when I was building my Italian wine portfolio. I fell in love with Gaja and have since acquired cases of the Barbaresco to be aged in my cellar.

Even in 2007, this wine is still fresh and youthful. Made from Nebbiolo grapes, the wine is expected to exhibit its typical profile: dark in color, tart and tannic with the best smell of cherries, licorice or truffles. These qualities are the jewels of a long aging potential wine.

I decanted it and waited for 30 minutes before drinking. The nose opens up like peeling off an onion over time. Red fruits and plum in the beginning and it evolves into some smoky, coffee characters. Licorice and truffles come to mind at some point in time. The color is extremely inviting, ruby in the centre. The wine is full-bodied with great tannins. Decanting is important to mellow the tannins since we are drinking a little early for this vintage. There is enough acidity to suggest further aging potential. Perhaps another 2 years in bottle will be ideal. The finishing is long and mineral. If we really want to have this wine now, decanting is definitely required and it will go very well with braised meat or something very strong like dry, aged cheeses.

I can’t leave this page without saying a few words about Nebbiolo. It is a native Italian grape that produces long-lived and prized wines adored by collectors. Nebbiolo is the most famous appellation of Piedmont. It has its name derived from the foggy appearance when the grapes are ripe. Nebbia is Italian for fog. The grape skins are thin but tough and are resistant to molds and pests. It is a difficult grape to grow and even so compared to Pino Noir. A late-season ripener, the vines need the best exposures, especially in cooler climates, in order to reach maturity. However, when the conditions are right, this grape will produce one of the most delicious wine in the world and one that gives many years of enjoyment throughout its aging process.


Copyright of Wine Treasures Pte Ltd

By Cher Lim
Wine Treasures Pte Ltd
Website: http://www.wine-treasures.com/
Email: limce@singnet.com.sg

Labels:

Tuesday, March 06, 2007

2002 Alois Kracher #12


It has been a busy Chinese New Year vacation for me and my family. There is the usual relative visiting, eating out and of course, giving red packets to all the younger ones. I am amazed that I have not put on additional weight, thanks to the calorie burners like running around delivering wines and taking last minute orders.

So, when the last weekend of Chinese New Year arrives and my husband suggested to open the Kracher, I am quite pleased to indulge myself into the world of vino sweetness. Yes, it is a dessert wine that we bought in one of the many Austria trips back in 2004. Kracher is one of the world’s great sweet winemakers. The 2002 harvest has created 58 different lots of trockenbeerenauslese (TBA). It is a category defined by Germany back in 1971 when the wine laws were revised in a bid to bring them closer into line with those of the other members of the EC. Due to the proximity of Austria and Germany, the revised wine laws have been closely followed by Austria. Trockenbeerenauslese wines are produced in minute quantities, in only the finest vintages, from individual grapes that have undergone noble rot to such a degree that they have shriveled to tiny raisins. The sugars in these grapes can go as high as 21.5% abv which is matched with high levels of acidity. This balance creates a dessert wine that does not overpower the palate with sweetness. Indeed, traces of acidity should be identifiable when tasting a fine TBA. Top quality TBAs are among the world’s most expensive wines.

2002 Kracher #12 is an unique wine because it has barely reached 4% alcohol after fermentation. According to the EC regulations, anything below 5% alcohol is strictly not a wine. Therefore, Kracher #12 is called a noble wine rather than a TBA. Regardless, this wine has a fantastic nose of sweet candied fruit and peaches. There is hint of acid and almost negligible honey in the nose. The viscous palate is full of marmalade and apricot flavors. The high acidity has kept the wine in perfect balance, leaving a perfect length that shows finesse. It is a very balanced wine. I enjoyed it just by itself without pairing with any food.

Copyright of Wine Treasures Pte Ltd

By Cher Lim
Wine Treasures Pte Ltd
Website: http://www.wine-treasures.com/
Email: limce@singnet.com.sg

Labels:

Tuesday, January 02, 2007

Celebrating New Year with Merry Edwards


It was mid-2005 when I first heard of Merry Edwards as the Pinot Noir winemaker to watch out for in California. After tasting her wine in several occasions, I concluded that it is one which could challenge the Burgundy eventually. I decided to bring in this wine to share with my customers this new year, also to provide an insight into the Californian winemaking scene.

For the past 10 years, American wine has been viewed as expensive in most parts of Asia compared to the other new world winemaking countries. It is partly due to the exchange rate and transportation cost in comparison to its counterparts. As with most agricultural sectors, the supply glut of grapes in America has also initiated a series of corrective action to prevent an oversupply of the wine in the market. The growers and wineries have taken hard steps to sustain the industry as a whole. Fortunately, the wine industry has come around with quality wine at value prices. This has benefited the American consumers and we are beginning to see the spread over effect to its exports.

The most noticeable benefits are the fine winemaking techniques adopted by those wineries who have survived the consolidation phase. They know that it is quality and finesse that will bring them far and will eventually challenge the French wine status in the world.

Merry Edwards, like many premium winemakers, has employed a mix of traditions and technology in her methods of winemaking. I tasted two different vintages of her Pinot Noir (Russian River), 2003 and 2004. Merry cold soaked her grapes prior to fermentation which she has moved to using a higher temperature than before. Research has shown that cold soaking will extract more color and tannins from the grapes skins (the component extracted is called monomeric anthoyanins). A warmer fermentation could also prepare the grapes for a deeper aroma profile during aging. I recalled the 2003 vintage as one that has an upfront cherry nose with hints of mint. The color is bright red and very delightful to the eyes. There is a lot of cranberry flavors and a smooth texture. The tannins is refined and pleasant, mixed with a slight sweetness which suggests a favorable 2003 climate.

I decided to usher in the new year with Merry’s Russian River Pinot Noir 2004. Instead of watching the usual count down on TV, we decided to rent a movie called DejaVu (starring Denzel Washington) to accompany this wine. I thought the name of the movie is really appropriate for this tasting.

With the movie running and our dog falling asleep in his sofa bed, I decided that it is time to open the wine. It greets me with a nose of cherry and almond, with the latter stimulating some gastronomic juice. The aroma profile seems to be more complex than the traditional Pinot Noir I have tried, with additional hints of jasmine and plum as the wine breathes. The palate is a little more spicy than the 2003 vintage and reminds me of mushroom as well. The tannins are more pronounced but very well integrated into the finishes of the wine. I think the wine has a good aging potential and for those who are impatient, I will recommend a quick decanting to enhance the drinking pleasure. Overall, there is a clear difference in the wine’s aroma and palate presentation between the two vintages, I thought the 2004 is more robust and closer to the style of Burgundy.

Merry Edwards is probably the most unique winemaker in America, especially her Pinot Noir. I was told that her wine is now adored by the Japanese consumers and I can understand the reason. I hope my customers will like it too. More of their comments later.

My Best Wishes to all my friends in a prosperous and healthy 2007!


Copyright of Wine Treasures Pte Ltd

By Cher Lim
Wine Treasures Pte Ltd
Website: http://www.wine-treasures.com
Email: limce@singnet.com.sg

Labels:

Friday, December 22, 2006

2002 Bordeaux – a pleasant surprise

I have been invited to attend a 2002 Bordeaux trade tasting recently and was all curious about the wine given the challenging climatic conditions of this vintage. Actually, I was told by my negociant that this vintage is a great value for money if I were to serve them in restaurants. Whatever this means, I was not sure what to expect when I saw the wine list in my invitation flyer.

Arriving at Marriott Hotel in a rainy afternoon, I strolled into the tasting room packed with trade professionals who have decided to turn up on time despite the weather. This is certainly a good start as far as local practice goes.

The tasting is organized in a sit-down format, 7 glasses per person. The wine to be tasted are in the following order: Domaine de Chevalier, Chateau Petit Village, Chateau Palmer, Chateau Figeac, Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron, Chateau Cos d’Estournel and Cahteau Saduiraut. The respective vineyard representatives were invited to speak on each wine as we taste. As 2002 is a relatively young vintage, I am looking for longevity qualities such as the wine’s acidity and phenols.

Domaine de Chevalier, presented by Mrs Olivier Bernard.
Two wines from this vineyard – Domaine de Chevalier Blanc and Chevalier Rouge. We started with the white wine which is a lovely refreshing Sauvignon Blanc with a dominated nose of cut grasses, hints of citrus fruits. The palate has good natural acidity, notes of mineral and lemon. The wine has a lingering finish which is important to suggest its aging potential. I think this wine will improve given another 2-3 years.

The Chevalier Rouge strikes me as having a good vigor with an upfront nose of berries. I discovered a rather distinct vanilla nose in the wine although it is mentioned that there is only 20% new oak used here. It has a good structure and great tannins. The texture is rather smooth for this young wine. I may suggest that this wine is ready to drink in 3 years given the palate composition.

Chateau Palmer, presented by Mr Bernard de Laagne de Meux
This is a masculine wine (compared with the Chevalier Rouge) with a great nose of blackcurrants and plums. Medium to full bodied with a relatively pronounced tannins. The wine has long length, leaving behind a lasting impression on my palate. The aging potential is high, probably another 8-9 years before drinking.

Chateau Petit Village, presented by Mr. Christian Seely
This is a much mellow wine compared with the previous samples. It has a good nose of blackcurrants and even hints of chocolates. The palate is quite pleasant but it is not as distinctive as the Palmer. Its tannins are balanced. I think this wine is an easy drinking one.

Chateau Pichon Longueville, presented by Mr. Christian Seely
It has a beautiful deep ruby color and a nose of toastiness. The palate is full bodied and rich with black fruits. The tannins are ripe and inviting. I would imagine that it is a great wine to pair with a braised meat dish. The toasty tobacco like finish is a stimulant to most simply cooked food. I think the wine is almost ready to drink for the less patient ones. It will benefit from a quick decanting to bring out the multi-layered aroma of the wine.

Chateau Figeac, presented by Count Eric d'Aramon
This wine strikes me immediately as an easy drinking one. Its aromatic nose of fruitcake and blackcurrants in addition to a medium bodied style makes it a likeable wine. The wine possesses a famine character which is pleasant in almost all occasions.

Chateau Cos d’Estournel, presented by Jean-Guillaume Prats
I was secretly looking forward to this wine when I was showed of the wine list at the invitation. Its deep purple color coupled with the nose of black fruits and spices gives an overall elegant impression. The wine is rather full-bodied with defined structure, tannins are balanced. This winery continues to bring great surprises even in a challenging vintage. The wine can benefit from a few more years of aging (may be 3-5 years).

Chateau Suduiraut, presented by Mr. Christian Seely
This wine reminds me of a Barsac style instead of Sauternes. It is full-bodied, sweet with some hints of citrus notes on the palate. There is a lack of intense honey nose as in a Botrytised wine. This is a great companion to lighter cheese and is delicious even on its own.

Overall impression of 2002 Bordeaux vintage is great. Although it is not as musculine as its 2000 counterparts. I think the wineries have made exceptional efforts to create fine wines given the climatic challenges.

Copyright of Wine Treasures Pte Ltd

By Cher Lim
Wine Treasures Pte Ltd
Website: http://www.wine-treasures.com
Email: limce@singnet.com.sg

Labels:

Sunday, November 19, 2006

Turkish Delight


It has been a long time since I last wrote in October. To make up for it, I will introduce a rare find from Turkey. It came when I was having my wine workshop at Holland Village and one of my visitor happens to be from Turkey. He asked if I am interested in tasting a Turkish wine. Being curious as always, I gladly accepted the offer and looked forward to tasting this wine.

The wine that I would be tasting is a Sauvignon Blanc 2004 from Sarafin. Since Turkey is surrounded by the Mediterranean sea, the climate is most conducive for wine grape production – long sunny warm days followed by cool evenings. Having chilled the wine to its optimum temperature 10-12C, I opened it for tasting. In order to explore the depth of this wine, I only prepared bread, cold cuts and salad to accompany the tasting.

It has a straw yellow color reflecting the climate. First nose is strongly aromatic which surprises me for a Sauvignon Blanc. It dissipates quickly after a few attempts of swirling and the classic grassy, citrus notes take over, somewhat rich flavor with hints of minerals. It is slightly tart but with a long lingering finish. On pairing with my simple food, this wine complements well with the cold cuts and salad that has a small dressing of spiced olive oil.

I kept the remaining bottle of wine for my next tasting which is 36 hours later. The strong floral aroma has mellowed down quite a bit and the wine palate was modified over time. It is more crisp and balanced, losing some of the rich flavor but I prefer it this way. I guess the flora aroma may have been too overpowering earlier on. This time, I had some green olives stuffed with cheese and dipped in olive oil to accompany the wine. I love it! It is a perfect combination for a Sunday afternoon if all you want is to relax reading a book with soft jazz music in the background.

Copyright of Wine Treasures Pte Ltd

By Cher Lim
Wine Treasures Pte Ltd
Website: http://www.wine-treasures.com
Email: limce@singnet.com.sg

Labels:

Monday, September 11, 2006

Oh, Grappa!

I was checking stocks of my wine cellar this weekend when I realized that I am still holding a small collection of Grappa ! I decided to write about this forgotten spirit even though it is not a wine.

Strictly by definition, Grappa is a distilled spirit from grape skins and seeds (known as pomace) that are left behind in the winery after the wine is made. The name is exclusive – only distillates produced in Italy can be marketed as “grappa” and every aspect of its production is to follow a prescription – the composition of the pomace, including the allowable moisture, the distillation method and the maximum alcohol level (86%). The other form of spirit that is distilled from whole fermented grapes is called acquavite d’uva.

The aroma of grappa is complex and full, especially when the alcohol level is less than the maximum. The grape varietals that are more suitable for making grappa belong to the aromatic category: Riesling, Gewurztraminer, muscat, Muller-Thurgau. As the raw materials of grappa are dependent on those used in winemaking, the recent changes in winemaking practices carry an impact on the quality of grappa indirectly. Traditionally, whole grapes and stems are crushed to extract the grape juice for fermentation in making wine. Today, wineries remove the stems from the grapes before pressing in order to reduce the bitter taste in the wine. Similarly, grappa distillery can now use pomace without stems or request the winery to remove the stems. There is also more moisture in the pomace for distillation. The smell of sweetness in the must is much like that of the wine that we all enjoy. When grappa is made, the aroma from the grapes is passed to the spirit. The higher quality pomace ensures that the resultant grappa is smooth and richly aromatic.

Enjoying a grappa is much like enjoying a wine. It sometimes carry aroma like herbs, raisins, nutty and the color may vary from its purest form to amber and honey. The glassware designed to hold the spirit is fanciful and artistic. It is a love on first sight for me. The taste of grappa has also found its way into many Italian kitchens. As for my own kitchen, I love to use a dash of grappa that has the spicy aroma in strong flavored dishes to give it the extra omh factor. To enjoy grappa in a glass, it is best served at 8-10C for the young spirit and 16-18C for the older ones.

Copyright of Wine Treasures Pte Ltd

By Cher Lim
Wine Treasures Pte Ltd
Website: http://www.wine-treasures.com
Email: limce@singnet.com.sg

Labels:

Thursday, June 29, 2006

Tasmania, the hidden jewel

In my last trip to Australia for my master degree residential block, I am blessed to have met a great gentleman who is a restructuring plastic surgeon (mainly for those who are hurt by accidents) as well as a vineyard owner in Tasmania. Through him, I tasted my first Tasmanian Riesling (I recalled it is vintage 2004). It is made with such finesse that reminds me of grapefruits and green guava on the nose, taste like smooth fruity yogurt invigorated by the typical pungent minerality that is only unique of German Riesling. The finishing is long, lingered with citricity. Overall, it is a very fine piece of art and I would imagine that it is made with passion and undivided dedication.

After this experience, I decided to research on Tasmania and realize that it is a hidden jewel amidst the many Australia islands. Although the history of winemaking is only as recent as 1970s, Tasmania’s cool climate has yielded results that are comparable to those in Alsace and Germany where wines are light to medium body, good levels of natural acids which gives the wine its crisp and fresh character. Upon further research, Tasmania has more than 60 vineyards and wineries, all filled with enthusiastic owners. Most importantly, it is an eco-friendly island with fresh air and healthy soil. To date, most of the international grapes have been planted in Tasmania for winemaking. I have tasted the great Riesling which I believe has been under-rated so far in the market. Its Pinot Noir is another great find. They are outstanding, comparable with that of the Burgundy’s at half of its price.

Comparing Tasmania with the old world wine producing region, I will tend to see its similarities with that of Alsace in France for its climate and the geographical location relative to its respective parent country. I will expect great Riesling, Gewurztraminer to be made from Tasmania, given its natural climatic affinity. So, it is time to watch out for the Tassie labels that produce great tasting wine which will surprise your palate and have you asking for more!

By Cher Lim
Wine Treasures Pte Ltd
http://www.wine-treasures.com
email: limce@singnet.com.sg

Labels: